Vehicles and crash safety

Road safety is a responsibility that all drivers share, but at the end of the day, we as humans make mistakes, resulting in traffic accidents, both minor and major.

While few of us can proudly boast of an unblemished driving record during our entire motoring lives, fewer are able to boast of an accident-free record. Most accidents are minor, resulting in scratched paintwork, or at worst a couple of dented panels. The inevitable will happen however, with lives lost as a result of a horrific accident.

Modern passenger vehicles are increasingly powerful with the maximum speeds increasing with each generation of vehicles that are being marketed. This situation has regulating authorities worried due to the fact that no matter what regulations are in place, death tolls from road accidents will keep on increasing.

From the point of car manufacturers, there is a need to ensure that drivers and passengers are protected in the event of a major accident.

Euro NCAP

The Euro NCAP or the European New Car Assessment Programme was established in 1997. It is now backed by five European governments that provide motoring consumers with a realistic and independent assessment of the safety performance of some of the most popular cars sold in Europe. Euro NCAP has rapidly become a medium for encouraging significant safety improvements to new car design.

Safety in design

Safety sells cars in modern times, and for the majority of car purchasers, it should represent the key element in their purchasing decision.

By law, all new car models must pass certain safety tests before they are sold. But legislation provides a minimum statutory standard of safety for new cars. It is therefore the aim of Euro NCAP to encourage manufacturers to exceed these minimum requirements. It must be mentioned at this stage that Euro NCAP is not the only body involved in business of safety ratings for new vehicles.

Various other bodies such as the German TUV, MIRA in the United Kingdom and the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) in the United States also carry out safety tests on road-going passenger vehicles.

However, the following explains in brief how NCAP's different crash tests are performed and how the results are interpreted:

		Front impact: The front impact test was developed by the European Enhanced Vehicle Safety Committee as a basis for legislation, but impact speed has been increased by 9km/h in tests carried out by NCAP. Its purpose is to assess the amount of protection given to front occupants of the vehicle in the event of a head-on collision. Frontal test collisions take place at 64km/h against a rigid barrier that overlaps at least 40% of the frontal width of the vehicle.
		Side impact: Similar to the front impact, side impact tests are used to access the amount of protection given to front passengers. Side impact tests use a trolley with a deformable front that is towed into the driver's side of the car to simulate a side-on crash. Impact occurs at 30km/h.
		Pedestrian impact tests: These are a series of tests that are carried out to duplicate accidents that involve child and adult pedestrians where impact occurs at 40km/h. Numerous impact sites at the front of the vehicle are then assessed as being good, fair or of poor in design that could potentially result in serious injury or death, in the event of an accident.
		Pole test: Accident patterns vary from country to country, but approximately 25% of all serious-to-fatal accidents result from side impact collisions (e.g. when one vehicle runs into the side of another). However in Germany, over half of such accidents occur when a vehicle impacts a pole or a tree, and in some cases, wrap around the object. To encourage vehicle manufacturers to fit head protection devices, a pole or head protection test has been added to the Euro NCAP protocols. Side impact airbags help to make this kind of crash survivable, which can be very effective in other types of side impact accidents such as being hit by another vehicle where the bonnet enters the window at head height. In new tests, the car tested is propelled sideways at 29km/h into a rigid pole of 254mm diameter. The pole is relatively narrow, so there is major penetration into the side of the car.

Vehicle ratings

Crash test dummies are fitted with a myriad of sensors are used to simulate the presence of human passengers in test vehicles during tests. The sensors give readings on the direction and amplitude forces that are likely to be experienced by various parts of the passengers' bodies in the event of an accident.

As an example, NCAP gives the following general safety assessment for a popular European manufactured MPV that performed brilliantly in its safety tests:

"The brand X model performed exceptionally in gaining a five-star safety rating. Its body proved extremely stable and protected its occupants, gaining a maximum score for its performance in the side impact. It also safeguards children, its restraints meeting most of the Euro NCAP performance limits. Only the neck loading for the younger child was a little high. But the protection it gives to pedestrians is average."

The above tests therefore recommends that additional restraints be used for younger children who are more likely to suffer neck injuries in the event of a major accident. On the other hand, a vehicle that performs poorly in safety tests may read as follows:

"The brand Y model was awarded only one star for protection in frontal and side impact tests. In the frontal impact test, the head and loadings on both knees failed to meet the criteria. Under side impact crash test conditions, loadings to the chest and abdomen were greater than those that are to be permitted by the current requirements. In frontal impact, the major problems related to excessive intrusion and instability of the passenger compartment. In side impact, reduced loading of the chest and abdomen is needed, while at the same time controlling the loading on the pelvis."

Needless to say, vehicle Y above is best avoided in the interest of passenger safety, since the NCAP conclusion is that passenger safety is jeopardised by poor vehicle design.

Therefore, it is always good to know about the kind of car that you are purchasing, not only for your sake, but the sake of your passengers and even pedestrians who might be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Car safety for children

Babies and small children are totally dependent on the good care and supervision of their parents, particularly when it comes to vehicles. It is likely that most families travel further and spend the most time in their car or vehicle during the school holidays. The car is the most convenient way of getting around but there are precautions a parent can take to keep children and babies in vehicles safe at all times.

While adults do all they can to ensure that their whole vehicle is in good running order, traveling at a safe speed, never drinking and driving, and avoiding driving while they are tired, accidents still happen.

Safety belts and child restraints
The single most important thing you can do to protect your children while driving is to buckle them up properly. Other than being a legal requirement, seat belts make traveling much safer in an event of an accident. Many people do not realize that in a crash going at 50km/h, an unrestrained body will hit the dashboard with a force of between 30 and 60 times your own body weight.

Child safety seats
Child safety seats, when correctly installed and used, reduce the risk of death by 71 percent for infants and 54 percent for children aged 1 to 4. They also reduce the need for hospitalization by 69 percent for children aged 4 and under. Finding the right seat can be confusing; thus it's important to use a seat that is appropriate for your child's size and age, and that fits properly to your vehicle. Here are some guidelines that can help:

		All children ages 12 and under should sit in the back seat.
		Infants should be in rear-facing child safety seats until they weigh at least 7.5kg and at least 1 year old. Never put a rear-facing infant or convertible safety seat in the front seat of a vehicle with an active passenger air bag.
		Children over 1 year old and between 8 and 25 kg can be in forward-facing child safety seats, or in rear-facing convertible seats if the child has not reached the maximum rear-facing weight.
		Children ages 4 to 8 (about 15 to 30 kg) should be in a booster seat and restrained with lap and shoulder belts every time they ride.
		Adult safety belts alone do not provide protection from injury in a crash for children this size.
		Usually, children over 30 kg and 8 years old and above can fit correctly into lap/shoulder belts. When the child is sitting all the way back against the vehicle seat, the lap belt should fit across the child's hips, not the stomach. The shoulder belt should cross the center of the shoulder. Do not let your children put shoulder belts under their arms or behind their backs.
		Read your child safety seat instruction manual and vehicle owner's manual carefully for proper installation. The seat should be locked tightly against the vehicle seat and not move more than 1-inch forward or side to side.
		Replace any child safety seat that has been in a crash.

Car seats and coats don't always mix
Before you buckle your baby in a child safety seat, take of any bulky coats or jackets they might be wearing. The child seat harness might not work as well is there's all that cushioning between the baby and the belts. Use blankets instead to keep your baby or child warm.

Some rear view mirrors can be dangerous
Watch out for mirrors sold to help you keep an eye on your rear-facing infant. Many mirrors are stuck to the back window or to the back of the car. In a crash- even if you stop suddenly, can cause the mirror to go flying and hit your child or other occupants in the head.

An unlocked vehicle is a hazard waiting to happen
Always keep your vehicle locked, even if you live in the safest of neighbourhoods. Many deaths were attributed to children and babies being left unattended in or around cars. And it's not just from joy riders- this includes young children who became locked in the car boot.

There are rare instances when children are safest in the front seats
While children younger than 13 are generally safest sitting in the back seat of a vehicle, there is an exception if you drive an older model car that doesn't have a front passenger-side air bag and has a three-point safety belt in the front passenger seat and only has lap belts in the back. In this case, a child who can no longer fit in a front-facing safety seat but doesn't yet fit the vehicle's safety belts properly on his own is best off sitting up front in a booster seat, using the vehicle's lap-shoulder belt.

Ride empty handed
Never allow passengers especially children and babies sitting up front to hold toys, games, or anything else that might come between him and a deploying air bag. Children have been seriously injured when an inflating bag causes the toy to hit their face.

Never leave babies or children in a parked car
It's very important to never leave your children alone a car, even for a few minutes as children can overheat in stationary vehicles very quickly. Cars have even been stolen with young children in time. However, leaving older children in the car with the little ones offers no extra protection either- they may get out of the car, wander off or touch equipment such as brakes.

		Use child locks if they are fitted.
		Teach your children to get out on the footpath side.
		Remove the cigarette lighter and any other unsafe objects and materials from the car.
		Always stay with your children when on the road, driveway and other areas where there are vehicles moving around.

Babies and children deserve the very best protection they can get. Be responsible and make your drive with your children a safe and happy one.

Test drive do's

A test drive goes beyond kicking the tyres or knocking on the bonnet. Here are some clues on how to make the most out of one when you are deciding on buying a new car.

Proper seating

This is absolutely crucial if you are going to live with the car for the next few years. First, adopt the correct driving position, making sure your elbows are slightly bent when gripping the wheel at the 10 and 12 o'clock positions. Ensure that your back is not arched when you stretch to grip the top part of your steering wheel (the furthest point). Likewise, your knees should be slightly bent with your feet fully depressing the pedals. Safety is paramount and a proper driving position makes it much easier for you to steer out of trouble when the situation warrants it.

Once you have adjusted to the preferred driving position, the next thing to do is to take note of the adjustments available on the seat (height, tilt) as well as the steering wheel. It is important to ensure that the seats offer proper back support and side bolstering in relation to the driving controls in different models. Make sure that the steering column does not block your vision. Adjust rear view and side mirrors to ensure that you have a clear view of traffic around you. Remember to take your time and don't be rushed by the sales person.

On the road

Once seated and strapped in, decide on a route to take as the engine warms up. Choose a mix of towns and highways (preferably one you are familiar with). Don't be perturbed if you run into a traffic jam in the hot afternoon sun, as it will give you a notion of how well the air conditioning works and if the radio is of decent quality. However, this doesn't mean that you have the radio or air conditioning on at full blast as this will mask the noise generated by the car. Pot holes on urban roads come in handy in showing the refinement of the vehicle. Does it absorb irregularities of the road, or does it make the ride bumpier?

If you are testing an automatic model, pay attention to gear changes; does the car jerk noticeably during upshifts? A well-designed modern automatic vehicle transmission is usually smooth, with the only indication of gear swapping heard in the engine revs. Stimulate an overtaking maneuver by stepping hard on the accelerator and note the responsiveness of the engine and eagerness of the transmission to drop a gear (in order to pick up speed). When coming to a halt, judge the effectiveness of the brakes and pedal feel: How fast does the car shed speed and is it easy to modulate breaking? For manual transmissions, a smooth clutch engagement is desired, as is the ease of slotting into all gears.

If you read enthusiasts-centric car review magazines, you might think that outright handling is the most important. This might be the case of course, if you are driving a BMW M3 or a Lotus Elise. Things to look out for in a test drive is how responsive the car is to steering changes- whether it turns smoothly and tidily through a corner, and how the resulting leaning motion (body roll) in mid-corner affects your confidence. For ride comfort purposes, passenger cars will always have a larger degree of body roll compared to race cars. At high speeds such as on the highways, observe how well the car stays in its chosen path- when it "pushes" wide as its speed increases, how well does it respond to more steering inputs? Most cars are tuned to understeer when they run out of grip for the sole reason that it is easier for most drivers to regain control just by backing off the throttle.

Build quality

Now that you have completed the drive, check on the nitty-gritty bits back in the showroom. Walk around the vehicle, observe panel gaps and paint quality- particularly its consistency. Modern assembly plants have come a long way but don't expect perfection as many parts of a car are still manually put together. This is where you should conduct the closing and opening of bonnets, doors and trunks. If there is a similar model in the showroom, compare its fit against your test car.

Check the interior of the car: apart from its features, build quality is what you should be looking for. Undecided what furnishings to use? Plastic is not a bad choice as long as it is good quality; even "wood" finishing found in many cars these days are actually plastic. Exposed to hot tropical climates, lightweight, shiny and hard plastic will inevitably harden and turn brittle. Don't forget the switchgear: The air-conditioning controls, power windows, wiper functions and so on should feel solid, positive to touch and within easy reach. An inexpensive car should not be an excuse for frail poor quality plastics.

Practicality

Clever packaging means that even "small" cars these days have sufficient space for four or five adults. Since you are the driver of the car, always set your driving position first before judging the room at the back. If your knee room is tight, check to see if the front seats are designed to allow rear passengers to slot their feet under. For contoured hatchback models, pay attention to the cramped headroom at the back that is caused by the lower roofline. Boot space is usually wasted on many owners but if you are an avid golfer, for example, you might want to check the width and shape of the trunk to see if it can fit your partners' bags as well.

Considering that a car usually comes second in line of property purchases (after residential property), it is quite alarming how many consumers actually surrender huge amounts of money without going through a test drive. No matter how brief, an actual test drive is best, and will yield many clues to how well a car will serve you over the years, so make sure you have one before signing on the dotted line. Find a dealership with test drive vehicles, and if all else fails, find a friend generous enough to grant you a test drive of that particular model.

How to speak specs

There's practically no way to avoid them- statistics, dimensions, measures and techno-hype. Carmakers and car reviewers bombard the hapless car shopper with highly technical information. In the case of road tests and reviews by reputable sources, it can be useful and enlightening. As spouted by hyped-up marketing machines, it can be nothing more than ploys to confuse a buyer.

To make a proper purchase decision, do you really need to understand how many cams a car should have? Actually, no. Trust the opinions of the right people, or the seat of your pants on a thorough test drive, and you won't go far wrong. Still, there is interesting and often relevant information on the spec sheet. Let's take a look at a typical spec sheet and decipher some of the information encoded within.

Body Style
This is relatively self-explanatory. The vehicle's body style is something that is categorized for various regulatory reasons. It can offer a useful reference point, even if some vehicles that are clear competitors in the marketplace are considered by the government to be in different size classes. Think: sedan, multipurpose vehicle (MPV), four-wheel drives, etc. Airbags & Weight

Most spec sheets devote a line to safety equipment like airbags. In the fast-evolving field of safety engineering, the more inflatable devices you've got, the better off you are. This is by no means the entire safety story, however, since the structural design of the car is a critical (if difficult to quantify) part of vehicle safety. Another big element is vehicle weight. Though heavy vehicles are typically less maneuverable than lighter ones and may have a harder time avoiding an accident, if a crash with another vehicle is inevitable, you always want to be in the heavy vehicle. It's all simple physics.

Drivetrain
Though many manufacturers make a big deal about it, drivetrain (meaning where the engine is and which wheels are doing the driving) is only an important issue if you've got a wicked sporting streak or drive on snow or dirt regularly. Sports car people will want rear drive for the handling advantage it offers at the outer limits of traction. Snow and dirt folks will appreciate all-wheel or four-wheel drive. The rest of us can be perfectly happy with front-wheel drive year-round, even in rain, snow, and on most dirt roads.

Engine Size/ Type
When it comes to engine size/type, don't worry about the details too much-not because it doesn't matter, but because there are surprisingly few categorical assumptions you can make.

How so? Engines are measured by the volume of air it takes to fill their cylinders, which are normally expressed in liters. But it turns out size can mean very little since a very efficient small engine can hugely outperform a much bigger one. Likewise, the camshaft arrangement can be a non-issue-at least from the driver's seat. Overhead Valve (OHV) engines use the oldest technology, but the best ones can still perform extremely well. The Corvette and Viper spring immediately to mind. The engine's layout (in-line 4, V-6, V-8 or whichever) can tip you off as to the relative operating smoothness you can expect, but not always. More cylinders make for smoother engines, but there are some remarkably smooth four-cylinder engines these days.

Peak Horse Power/ Torque
Peak horsepower and peak torque are the two measures that count most in engine performance. You can tell a lot about an engine- and how much you're going to like it as these figures and the engine revolutions per minute (rpm) are associated with them. Peak horsepower represents the maximum amount of work an engine can do. "Work" in this case is sheer pulling power, which may be in the form of acceleration or load pulling. Take special note of the engine rpm that is required to generate that horsepower; if it's a high figure like 5,000 rpm or more, the engine will really need to be spinning fast to do its best work. That means a downshift or two (or even three) will have to happen before the revs are high enough to reach that peak horsepower figure. If you don't like to rev an engine up, you'll never get much of the benefit out of a high horsepower engine that needs a lot of revs.

If you tend to like immediate throttle response with a bare minimum of revs showing on the tachometer, you're a torque person. You not only want to see a big peak torque figure, but you'll want it at the lowest possible engine rpm where it's always accessible.

Transmission
Horsepower and torque figures can tell you a lot, but don't be a slave to them: this is another case where a valued expert opinion or your own thorough test drive can tell you all you really need to know. Besides, these figures are not always honest and accurate, and factors like transmission type and number of gears (more is always better), vehicle weight (lighter equals more performance) and other elements play a big role in the performance a car ultimately delivers.

Suspension
There are dozens of different suspension systems currently in production, with layouts (and names) too complicated for the average person to keep up with. The systems fall into a few basic types: Independent (the best), semi-independent (old technology) and live axle (this has been around since the Ford Model T). Independent is the preferred type, since it allows each wheel to respond to bumps without upsetting any of the other wheels. This is the best situation for ride comfort and handling. Semi-independent systems tend to be used on lower-priced cars and are fading out of production. Live-axle suspension is today found mainly on trucks and a few "old-tech" cars. Rugged and inexpensive, live axle suspension can work well, but it can't deliver the combination of ride comfort, traction and handling that independent suspension can.

Brakes
When it comes to brakes, for most drivers, the key issue is whether the vehicle has ABS (Anti-Lock Brakes). In the opinion of our expert drivers, this feature is worth whatever it costs. Skipping it on the options list can save you some money, but we believe that's a bad tradeoff. ABS allows even a novice driver to panic-brake like a pro, plus it insures you'll retain some steering control no matter how sudden the stop. Both of these factors can be lifesavers.

Rules of Thumb
Here are a few final rules of thumb: A vehicle with a longer wheelbase tends to ride more smoothly that its shorter counterparts, but it also gives up some maneuverability. There are several types of steering systems on modern vehicles, but the execution and engineering of the system is more important than its type. A tight turning circle makes U-turns easier in confined quarters. Passenger volume can be a useful measurement of interior space, but it's not the end-all, since it includes space that may not really be useable for people like the area above the instrument panel or rear parcel shelf. Last but not least, fuel economy is a great starting point for estimating how much gas your new car will burn, but it doesn't correlate perfectly with reality. Real drivers tend to burn more fuel wherever they drive. And as you've heard perhaps a million times, your mileage may vary even with the same car.

A glossary of automative terms

Become a vehicle expert by learning these automotive definitions that offer more insight to your new vehicle purchase!

Accessories
Can refer to add-on options not normally included on standard models. Can also refer to items operated by either the car's engine or by battery power including power steering, electric windows and air conditioning.

All-Wheel Drive
A system by which all four wheels are driven at the same time. Some are fully operational at all times, while others only drive the front or rear wheels under normal conditions. Then, when the drive wheels start to slip, the computerized control unit transfers power to the other wheels. While some consider AWD the same as four-wheel drive, usually they are not. 4WD vehicles can usually be placed in two-wheel drive, whereas AWD vehicles cannot.

Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
During an emergency or panic stop, ABS uses electronic sensors place near each wheel to judge whether the wheels are skidding, or locked up while braking. If they are, the system momentarily releases the brakes to allow the tire to regain traction, and in most cases helping the driver keep control of the vehicle. The split-second grab and release of the brakes when ABS is activated often causes the brake pedal to pulsate.

Anti-Roll Bar
(Also called "Sway bar" and "Stabilizer bar.") A steel rod or tube that connects the right and left suspension components to the frame. Reduces body roll during cornering, which increases cornering stability. Most vehicles have front anti-roll bars and some have a rear one.

Brake Assist
Even though current ABS systems are great at bringing a vehicle to a stop, many drivers don't press hard enough on the brake pedal in a panic stop to get the most out of the system. Therefore, several carmakers have incorporated a system that automatically applies the full brake force during an emergency stop to slow the vehicle as quickly as possible.

Catalytic Converter
About the size of a small muffler, the Catalytic Converter is mounted under a vehicle as part of the exhaust system. It's filled with special metal material that converts the engine's tailpipe emissions into carbon dioxide and water vapor.

CFC-Free Air Conditioning
Today's cars use R-134a refrigerant in place of CFC-type compounds that can harm the earth's upper atmosphere or ozone layer.

Coil springs
One of several kinds of springs used in vehicle suspension systems. Made from single piece of tempered steel wound into a cylindrical coil shape. Often
used in cars or car-based SUVs.

Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)
Unlike conventional automatic transmissions, a CVT has no gears to be changed. Instead, it uses a steel belt or chain strung between two cone-shaped pulleys that vary in diameter depending on how quickly the driver wants to accelerate. This action provides a continuously variable transmission ratio that renders a hydraulic torque converter unnecessary and improves power application and fuel economy, while helping to reduce emissions.

Crossover
Any vehicle that combines the utility and rugged nature of an SUV with the ride and handling of a car. Think of them as tall wagons or short SUVs.

Crumple Zones
These are areas at the front and rear of a vehicle that are designed to deform during a crash in order to absorb as much energy as possible and keep the occupants safe.

Curb Weight
This is the weight of an empty vehicle not including any passengers or cargo.

Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
A system that runs the headlights at a reduced power so that oncoming drivers can better see your vehicle. Especially helpful in foggy or shaded situations.

Double Overhead Cam (DOHC)
Two camshafts that are mounted inside each cylinder head rather than older engine designs that featured only one camshaft mounted in the engine block. In a DOHC setup, one camshaft actuates the exhaust valves and the other works the intake valves.

Double Wishbone Suspension
This system features dual arms, an upper and a lower, both shaped like an A. The spindle that the wheel and tire mounts to is sandwiched between the arms. Often used in independent suspension setups.

Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD)
Braking system that electronically distributes braking between front and rear wheels under stopping conditions not aggressive enough to activate the ABS braking system. Helps reduce stopping distances.

Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)
An electronically operated fuel delivery system that feeds gasoline or diesel fuel into an engine. Almost every new car, truck and SUV today uses EFI.

Four-Wheel Drive
A system by which all four wheels are driven at the same time. Usually has a two-wheel drive setting that only drives the rear wheels. Often comes with a low-range gear setting and locking differential for ultimate off-road or poor weather traction. Found mostly in pickup trucks and full-frame SUVs. See also: all-wheel drive and rear differential lock.

Ground Clearance
The distance between the lowest component on your vehicle and the ground.

Horsepower and Torque
Horsepower is the rating of engine performance that allows an engine to maintain and increase the speed of a vehicle. Torque is what gets the vehicle moving in the first place. Vehicles like trucks that are required to tow heavy loads often have higher torque outputs compared to their peak horsepower figures. On the other hand, cars tend to have higher horsepower numbers than torque outputs because they are lighter and easier to get moving.

Independent Suspension (IRS)
A suspension setup where all four wheels move independently of each other. Formerly used almost exclusively on cars, IRS can now be found on some SUVs.

Knock Sensor
An electronic listening device that senses early signs of pre-ignition (also known as pinging or knocking) inside an engine's cylinders. The computerized system then delays when the ignition spark is delivered to the cylinder to reduce the possibility of engine damage.

Leaf Spring
One of several different kinds of springs used in vehicles. Composed of a series of flat steel plates sandwiched together to form a long, thin spring. Typically used in trucks and full-frame SUVs due to the superior strength of the spring.

Limited Slip Differential
Splits drive evenly between two drive wheels to maximize traction. Prevents one wheel from spinning while the other sits stationary. Unlike locking differential, a limited slip differential is ideal for paved roads.

Load-Sensing Proportioning and Bypass Valve
Varies braking force from front to rear depending on whether the vehicle is loaded or unloaded based on information received from load sensor. Helps maximize braking performance and reduce tire lockup.

Micron Air Filter
Also known as a cabin filter. Much like the air filter in you home furnace, the Micron filter removes dust, pollen and other airborne particulates from air that's coming into your vehicle through the air conditioning, heater or vent system.

Multi-Valve Engine
Any engine with more than one intake valve and one exhaust valve. It's common for new engines to have 3, 4 or even 5 valves. Additional valves help an engine more efficiently take in the charge of fuel and air, while expelling the spent charge faster, thus increasing power and fuel economy, while reducing exhaust emissions.

NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness)
An auto industry term that refers to any kind of annoying occurrence that can negatively affect the ride and quiet of a vehicle.

Rack-and-Pinion Steering
A series of parts that connect the steering wheel shaft with the tires. Turning the steering wheel rotates a pinion, which meshes with a rack or lateral gear. The rack converts this rotating movement into a side-to-side motion. Each end of the rack is hooked to steering linkages that are in turn connected to the wheels. Rack-and-pinion setups are more precise than recirculating ball-type units.

Rear Differential Lock
An electro-mechanical system that locks both rear axles together providing them with equal drive power. For use in limited traction situations such as off-roading. Not for use on dry paved roads.

Seatbelt Pretensioners with Force Limiters
Safety innovation that instantly takes the slack out of the shoulder safety belt during a frontal impact to increase the effectiveness of the belt at restraining the occupant. The system then gradually releases the belt tension to lessen the impact forces transferred to the occupant.

Torque Converter
A fluid coupler used in automatic transmissions to transmit power from the engine to the transmission. The torque converter enables the engine to idle while the transmission is in gear without the engine stalling. It also helps the vehicle take off smoothly from a stop.

Traction Control
An electronic system that senses slippage at the drive wheels and reduces engine power or applies the brakes to regain traction.

Unibody
Incorporates the body and frame into one unit. Frame structure is welded to the bottom of the vehicle's body. Unlike most pickup trucks and heavy duty. SUVs that use a separate body and frame, a unibody affords better sound isolation and a more rigid structure.

Valet Trunk-Locking System
A system that allows you to lock the trunk separately from the rest of the vehicle giving someone such a parking valet to operate your vehicle without being able to access the trunk.

Variable Power-Assisted Steering
Describes a steering system that's either electrically or hydraulically boosted according to engine or road speed. Assist is stronger at low speeds such as turning a sharp, slow corner. At highway speeds when less help turning the steering wheel is needed, assist is reduced.

Variable Valve Timing
Computerized mechanism that selects the optimum intake and exhaust valve opening and closing points during an engine's cycle. Optimizes low-rpm power output and fuel economy, while reducing emissions.

Vehicle Skid Control (VSC)
An electronic system that monitors vehicle speed and direction then compares this data with the driver's steering, braking and acceleration inputs. This information is then used in conjunction with traction control and anti-lock braking systems to help driver maintain control of vehicle during difficult driving situations such as an icy road.

Ventilated Disc Brakes
In place of disc brake rotors machined from solid steel, ventilated rotors have an air gap machined into the rotor that helps dissipate heat that can accumulate in the rotor under severe braking such as stop and go city driving, or constantly applying the brakes will descending a steep grade

Your travel check list

This festive and holiday season, many of us will be on the road on a long journey home and whether you realise it or not, many will have had close shaves with danger. Based on past statistics, accidents resulting in injury and death are becoming the hallmark of Malaysian festive seasons and it's a frightening thought.

During the long holiday weekend, the unusual spike in road accidents will shock the nation and will be a guaranteed conversation subject for several months. Yet our holiday-intensive calendar prompts Malaysians to take road trips every time a long festive break comes along.

Escalated accidents during the holiday season happen for these reasons: Sleep deprivation, fatigue and the big rush.

These are classic features of a holiday season. We sleep less because we are socialising, we are more tired because we are entertaining and we're in a big hurry because there is so much to do in such a short time. This means we are sleep deprived before the journey begins, sleep deprived during the holiday and sleep deprived on the return journey. Some drivers are so tired they have no capacity to make any kind of rational judgment. Some are in such a rush that they are outright aggressive.

Family holidays are not always pleasant. Most families sleep in very cramped conditions at the family home because the entire extended clan is gathering. With tensions high during festive reunions, many will drive back to the city angry and hurt, and cannot concentrate on driving.

Drivers might also be on assorted medications, which affect alertness and anxiety levels especially allergy, flu and fever medications.

Ergonomics also kills. The cosseting, soporific comfort of modern cars has made it easier to relax at the wheel. Cars literally become a bed on wheels. Researchers studying road safety are saying that while there are interesting gadgets and gizmos to keep drivers awake, none are reliable and can even be distracting.

Studies on driving long distances have shown that:

		Driver sleepiness is thought to cause at least 10 per cent of all road accidents. In some countries, this figure is higher.
		Sleep-related accidents are more likely to result in serious injury or death than other road accidents because sleepy drivers do not brake to try to prevent an accident, thus making the impact worse.
		The "danger" time for falling asleep at the wheel is between 4am and 6am when a motorist is 13 times as likely to have a sleep-related accident as someone who is driving in the middle of the morning or early evening. Mid-afternoon (2pm-4pm) is also a danger "spike".
		The greatest incidence of sleep-related accidents occurs when the driver has been awake for more than 18 hours.
		Highway accidents, which might be caused by sleepiness, are frequently categorised under other headings such as "inattention" or "perceptual error" although fatigue may have caused the driver to make these mistakes in the first place. Fear of prosecution and difficulties with insurance claims may deter many motorists from admitting that.
		Some researchers claim that motorists can suffer from "highway hypnosis" - a trance-like state induced by the monotony of highways.
		Sleep apnea, a medical condition that can result in "micro-sleeps", is fairly common. Studies show that sufferers are seven times more likely to have a road accident than normal drivers.
		Many of these accidents (in Malaysia) involve motorcycles and cars.
		Most sleep-related accidents happen on highways and trunk roads, especially at bends or junctions.
		Falling asleep at the wheel is preceded by feelings of extreme sleepiness, which drivers are aware of, but often ignore.
		Men aged 18-30 are most at risk, and account for around 50 per cent of sleep-related accidents. The early morning victims are usually young men, the early afternoon culprits older men.

If you fit any or all the following descriptions, you are highly likely to be in an accident:

		Beating red lights, rushing through the yellow light.
		Driving through stop signs when there are apparently no other cars.
		Talking on the cell phone while driving.
		Eating and drinking with one hand while driving.
		Being oblivious to other drivers and pedestrians while searching for parking space.
		Getting frustrated while driving behind MPVs or other large, tall vehicles that obstruct your view.
		Driving carefully in police presence but not otherwise.
		Being oblivious to driving while engrossed with music and radio.
		Getting aggressive with loud music.
		Getting into confrontations- verbal arguments, hand gestures- because of your own driving or of others.
		A work-hard-play-hard lifestyle that leaves you sleepy behind the wheel.
		Talking, taking your eyes off the road when driving with passengers, especially with small children.
		Wearing slippers or platform shoes during your travel back home that might hamper your ability to brake in an emergency.
		Not wearing your prescription glasses if you are short or long-sighted or suffer from astigmism (blurred vision at night).
		Not filling up your gas tank until almost empty. Accidents have been known to happen to cars parked on the emergency lanes.

Thus...

Sleepiness or fatigue while driving is not something that we cannot control. We must learn to watch for signs and take proper rest when needed instead of forcing ourselves to stay awake. Remember, this is for the safety of your loved ones during the festive seasons.

Is your vehicle stolen?

It's a sad fact that vehicle thefts have become so common nowadays. In addition, the process of making a theft claim can be a painful experience, with long processing time and the need to continue the loan repayments although the vehicle has been stolen. Nevertheless you can lessen the hassle of making a theft claim by understanding motor policies and their coverage in terms of theft protection offered as well as knowing some guidelines on how to make a theft claim.

Types of Motor Policies and Coverage

There are basically three types of motor policies namely Third Party Cover, Third Party Fire & Theft Cover and Comprehensive Cover.

Third Party Cover - indemnifies the Insured against legal liability arising from both bodily injury and property damage to third party. This plan excludes protection for accidental damage, theft or fire suffered by the insured's vehicle.

Third Party Fire & Theft Cover - provides cover as in "Third Party Cover", and also indemnifies the Insured in the event that the Insured's vehicle is stolen or damaged by fire.

Comprehensive Cover - provides covers as in "Third Party Fire & Theft Cover", plus physical damage to the Insured's vehicle following accidental collision or over-turning.

The theft protection offered in motor policies cover different circumstances in which vehicle theft can occur. In general, loss of vehicles due to accidental theft can be described as an incident in which a vehicle is unlawfully taken away from the insured party. If someone authorized by the vehicle owner uses the vehicle for a certain time and disappears with it, then it is not a straightforward theft claim. Such instances are excluded in a standard motor policy and hence the theft claim will most likely be rejected. Theft claims can also be rejected if the insurer or police suspect foul play or negligence on the part of the driver.

Note that theft claim will be settled based on the market value of the vehicle at the time of loss, or the Sum Insured, whichever is lower. As such, if the vehicle is under-insured, the settlement will be based on the Sum Insured, likewise if the vehicle is over-insured, the settlement will then depend on the prevailing Market Value.

Insurers do not compensate for loss of personal belongings such as cash or valuable items left in the vehicle. As such, vehicle owners must ensure that they do not leave their personal belongings in the vehicle.

Making a theft claim

The process of making a theft claim is almost similar to making an ordinary accident claim but making a theft claim usually requires longer processing time. The period given by Bank Negara Malaysia is stipulated to be processed within six months. However, in most cases, claims are settled as soon as the theft investigation is finalised without any irregularities being detected and all documents required for claims processing with payment have been processed.

In the event your vehicle is stolen/loss:

		Report to the police within 24 hours as required by Law and obtain a copy of the police report.
		Collect the claim form from your insurance company. Complete, sign accordingly and submit the claim form with supporting documents stated below.
		- Original police report - Original certificate of insurance - Original vehicle registration card - Copies of Identity card and driving license of the insured - Copies of Identity card and driving license of the driver - Copy of Hire purchase agreement (if any) - Two sets of original vehicle keys - Two copies of JPJ's Transfer Form K3 (transfer of vehicle ownership form to be completed by registered owner) and Lampiran A1 (letter of indemnity) - Letter of release from the hire purchase company (if any) - JPJ's Lampiran B duly signed and certified by a Commissioner for Oaths (for certification of owner's identity card) Note: Some insurers may require additional or fewer supporting documents

Insurers are required to finalise a theft claim, either approve or reject it within six months from the date of submission or when the police closes the investigation file, whichever is earlier.

After a vehicle theft claim is submitted to the insurer, there are two possible outcomes, the police may recover the vehicle or the insurer may decide to settle the claim based on advice from the police.

If your vehicle is recovered by the police before the six-month time frame is up or prior to the settlement of the claim, you should channel the said recovery information to the insurance company for further advice on appropriate action. You will have options to either:-

		Withdraw the claim (if the vehicle is recovered in good condition)
		Withdraw the claim and undertake the repair at your own expense (if the vehicle sustained minor damage and you wish to retain your No Claim Discount (NCD) entitlement)
		Withdraw the Theft Claim but pursue with Own Damage (OD) Claim (if vehicle recovered sustained extensive damage or has missing parts). If you pursue with OD, your NCD entitlement will be affected.

If the vehicle is not recovered by the police within six months from the date of the submitted theft claim, the insurer can settle the claim or reject it based on valid grounds. Generally, insurers would be able to decide whether the claim should be accepted or rejected by obtaining substantial information from the police investigations and adjuster findings. If the six months have passed and the insurer decides to reject the theft claim, it is required to inform you of it. You can then appeal to the insurer or refer the matter to the Financial Mediation Bureau.

Keep in mind that each insurer will have its own procedures governing the claims process. If you have any uncertainties on making a claim, contact your insurer for more details.

While insurance coverage for vehicle theft protect motorists with comprehensive policies, motorists should always be cautious and ensure that their vehicle is protected with vehicle alarm as well as gear and steering locks. Immobilisers or tracking system can also be installed for extra protection.

Ways to conserve fuel

The soaring fuel prices resulted from the reduction of petroleum subsidy and oil price hike in the world market have became a major concern to all Malaysians.

Below are some simple tips on how to minimise your fuel consumption and save you some money.

Use the Air Conditioner sparingly
Don't use the air conditioner unless you really need it as air conditioners use extra fuel when operating. Be smart when using the air conditioner. On the highway, turn on the air conditioner and wind up all the windows as closed windows will decrease air resistance. However, at low speeds and in stop and go traffic, it costs less to drive with air conditioner turned off and windows wind down.

Drive slow and steady
Reduce your speed and drive slowly. The faster you drive, the more wind resistance your vehicle will face and the more fuel you use. For instance, driving at 55mph rather than 65 mph can improve fuel economy,

Avoid frequent acceleration and sudden stops. Repeated acceleration and hard braking can lower your fuel mileage. Anticipate merging traffic and traffic lights in order to accelerate and decelerate smoothly.

Use the correct gear position
When stopping for a length of time or at traffic lights, put your gear into neutral or park position. This can save fuel. Incorrect gear shifting can lead to increase in fuel consumption.

Clutch and Accelerator control
Do not manipulate the clutch and accelerator to stay stationary as it wastes fuel. Riding the clutch causes loss of energy and damages to the clutch. Use handbrake when stopped on an uphill.

Check and clean your air filter
Air filters prevent dust from fouling the engine and keep impurities from damaging the inside of the engine. Check your air filters periodically to make sure it is clean and not clogged. Replacing a clogged air filter can improve your car's fuel consumption.

Get your car tuned up
Tuning up your car may cost you a little more but in the long run, you will save money by improving your fuel mileage. Make sure your engine is in proper mechanical condition and follow through with routine maintenance. Get it checked if you sense any unusual sound, smell or vibration. A poorly managed engine increases fuel consumption.

Use the right oil
Check the car manual and the manufacturer's recommendation on which grade of oil to use. Engine oil that is thicker than the recommended oil can cause increase in fuel consumption.

Stop engine when you stop your car
Turn off the engine when you stop your car and do not leave it idle for a long period of time. Keep the battery, dynamo, self starter and fan belt in good condition to ensure a quick start.

Reduce loads
Remove unneeded items from your car and get rid of unnecessary weight as much as possible. The heavier the load your car has to carry, the more fuel it consumes.

Car Pool
Car pool whenever possible and look for people who go to the same direction as you so that you can share the costs. For instance, you can ask a neighbour with children in the same school as your children to take turns picking them up from school.

Do not overfill fuel tank
When filling fuel tank, stop at the first click of the nozzle. Too much fuel will be spilled and wasted through evaporation. After filling the fuel tank, tighten the fuel cap and if it doesn't fit snugly, get a new one. Fuel can evaporate easily from the fuel tank if it has an escape.

Don't drive
Avoid driving and take alternative ways such as cycling, walking or use the public transportation where feasible.

Keep tyres in good condition
Keep the tyres inflated properly and check them frequently. You will get better mileage by keeping tyres inflated to the correct pressure. Under inflated tyres increase rolling resistance that leads to higher fuel consumption. Make sure you check the tyres regularly for alignment and balancing.

Plan your route
Rush hour or stop and go traffic can waste fuel. Plan your stops for the most efficient route and take a less congested route whenever possible as highly congested road can waste fuel excessively.

When travelling, get a map of that area to avoid getting lost which will increase your fuel consumption.

Jump starting a car

There may be a time when your car simply won't start because the battery is discharged or dead. Car batteries may lose their charge for some reasons, such as leaving the lights on overnight. Jump starting your car is a way to get your car's battery recharged. It is a fairly simple task, but you need to follow the correct procedures to do it safely.

Before jump starting your car, check the battery for cracks, any loose connections and corrosion. Try to clean off the corrosion around the dead battery terminals. If the battery is cracked and liquid is leaking out, get a new battery. Trying to jump start a cracked battery is dangerous and may cause explosion.

Never jump start the battery if your car's fluids are frozen. Always wear protective glasses or goggles and never smoke or use anything that may spark while jump starting your car or handling the battery.

		To begin the process, firstly get the car with the working battery to park next to the car with the dead battery, situating close enough so that the jumper cables reach both batteries, but make sure the two cars are not touching in any way.
		Be sure both cars are in park and turn off the engines as well as all electrical systems such as lights, radio or any other items running from the battery.
		Clamp one of the positive jumper cable (red) to the positive terminal (marked with the "+" sign) on the dead battery. Then, connect the other end of the positive cable to the positive terminal on the working battery.
		Now, attach the negative jumper cable (black) to the negative terminal (marked with the "-" sign) on the working battery. Do not attach the other negative cable to the negative terminal of the dead battery as sparks from the connection could ignite and causes the batteries to explode. Instead, clamp it to any unpainted metal surface on the engine of the car with the dead battery, such as a bold or bracket, where the current can ground out.
		Be careful not to touch the positive and negative clamps together. Double check that the clamps are securely connected and firmly attached to the terminal of the batteries.
		Start the car with the working battery. After a couple of minutes, attempt to start the car with the dead battery. If it doesn't start, wait for a while and try again or check the cables connection. If it is still not working, then you need to replace the battery.
		When both cars are running, you can remove the jumper cables one at a time in the reverse order that they were connected. Run the jump-started car for half an hour to make sure the battery has a full charge. Drive the revived car to a safe place before turning off the engine. If there is a possibility of additional problems, look for professional help and get the car checked out as soon as possible.